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Monday, 15 August 2016

Gastrologik, Stockholm.

Already in August we start thinking about the best meals of the year. Sacha in Madrid, certainly, Quique Dacosta of course, Ynshire Hall is up there too. Aponiente next month will, I expect be top notch as ever. Gastrologik in Stockholm might just top the lot of them though. The food here was truly sensational, such clarity in the flavours. The service too is impeccable. To be honest it's a joke that this place is just a one Michelin star. To my mind it's a two at the least.
Most days the tasting menu is different, based on what's good that day. Chefs Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr 'let today's produce decide'. So what we ate on the 30th July could be completely different from what you eat. They work closely and passionately with their local suppliers (I know this as they kindly gave us a little book at the end of our meal). Lots of places say these sort of things about local and seasonal but in this case it really does translate onto the plate. I often file these places under 'worthy' rather than joyful sometimes it's forgotten that the food should always above all be delicious. Not the case here.
The product is up there with the best we've eaten too and with such intensity of flavours. The restaurant interior too matches the simple yet beautiful food.....
Flat-bread with broad beans, smoked sour cream and carrots.
Oyster from Mollösumi with cucumbers, chamomile and spruce.
Sourdough bread made of spelt from Warbrokvarn with hand churned butter from Kittelberget.
I struggled to limit my bread intake, the bread is excellent here.
Wild salmon from Junkön with green strawberries and blackcurrant leaves. This is so good!
Garlic from Ugglarp with baked cream and enzymatic fermented garlic.
Chard from Rosendal with grilled butter and wild herbs.
Soured potatoes and vendace roe from Junkon, onion and fennel flowers.
Flowers from the garden with mackerel and broccoli.
Quail from Vidbo Norrby with grains, peas and parsley.
Suckling Pig from Hornsborg with cabbage, horseradish and blackcurrant.
Fresh goat's cheese from Löfsta with potato and flowers.
Lovage and green sorrel.
Berries from Törnvik, cream with cherry stones.
Roses from Rosendal with raspberries and beetroot.
Propolis and bee pollen vodka Pia's kalvdans with red currant and angelica. Sweet, salty, sour.
All these plates of food and not a weak course in any of them. It was almost impossible to choose a favourite but the oyster, the salmon and strawberries and the garlic courses were amongst the best dishes of the year. The desserts too were superb. The bottom line is this for me; everything we ate here was bloody delicious. You'd imagine this would always be the case with restaurants like this but it isn't. You really can't underestimate how good this place is. I don't really score any more but this is a 10/10.

The tasting menu for two plus a couple of drinks cost us £ 313.36. 
If you can't get in, Speceriet next door is their gastro-pub. 
Next time we're in Stockholm I hope we will do both.

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